How to Test Drive a Used Car in the UK — What to Listen, Feel and Check

Drive the car for at least 20–30 minutes on a mix of roads. Start the engine from cold, test the brakes, clutch, gear changes and steering, and watch for warning lights. Before you drive a private seller's car, check that you are insured.

A test drive is your best chance to find mechanical faults that no history check shows. Do the paperwork checks first, so you do not waste time driving a car that has problems on record.

Before you get in the car

Do these steps before the keys come out.

1. Check the paperwork. Match the seller's name and address to the V5C. See our V5C logbook guide.
2. Check the MOT history and tax status. Motofly shows both on its listing pages, or you can use the GOV.UK MOT history service.
3. Ask the seller not to warm up the engine. A cold start shows problems that a warm engine hides. Put your hand on the bonnet when you arrive. If it is warm, ask why.
4. Walk round the car. Look at tyres, panel gaps and leaks under the car. The used car buying checklist lists every item.
5. Take someone with you. A second person can listen while you drive, and it is safer when meeting a stranger.

Am I insured to test drive a private seller's car?

Do not assume you are. Your own policy may not cover test drives. Some policies include "driving other cars" cover, but many exclude it, and many that include it only give third-party cover. Many policies also exclude cars you are thinking of buying.

Before you drive:

• Read your policy or call your insurer and ask if it covers a test drive in a car you do not own.
• Ask the seller whether their insurance covers other drivers. Get a clear answer. Many private policies only cover named drivers.
• Check the seller's insurance is valid and covers you. If it does not, you could be liable for damage.
• If you cannot confirm cover, ask the seller to drive while you sit in the passenger seat. You will learn less, but you will take no insurance risk.

Never drive a car without confirmed insurance. Driving uninsured is a criminal offence. Dealers usually have their own test drive cover. Ask them to confirm it.

You also need a valid driving licence. Bring it. Many sellers ask to see it before they hand over the keys. The seller should also confirm the car is taxed and has a valid MOT. If the MOT has run out, you cannot drive it on the road except to a pre-booked MOT test or to a place where it is being repaired. Check the tax status before you travel.

What should I check on a test drive?

Starting and idling

• Turn the ignition on without starting. All warning lights should come on, then go out after the engine starts.
• Watch the exhaust at start-up. Blue smoke can mean burning oil. Thick white smoke that does not clear can mean a coolant problem. Black smoke can mean a fuel or filter fault.
• The engine should settle to a steady idle. Rough, hunting or very loud running is a warning.

Brakes

• Find a quiet, safe stretch of road with no one behind you. Brake firmly.
• The car should stop in a straight line. Pulling to one side can mean a seized caliper or uneven pads.
• A juddering pedal or steering wheel can mean warped discs.
• The pedal should feel firm. A soft, sinking pedal needs attention at once.

Clutch and gearbox

• On a manual, the clutch should bite in the middle of its travel. A bite right at the top of the pedal can mean a worn clutch.
• Gear changes should be smooth. Crunching, difficulty finding a gear or the car slipping out of gear are bad signs.
• On an automatic, changes should be smooth and quick. Harsh jolts, long delays or revving without moving mean trouble.
• Try reverse as well as every forward gear.

Steering and suspension

• On a straight, flat road, the car should track straight with light hands on the wheel. Pulling can mean tracking or tyre problems.
• Check for play or a loose feeling in the steering.
• Drive over bumps and speed humps. Knocks or clunks point to worn suspension parts.
• Turn the wheel fully each way at low speed. Listen for clicks or groans.

Speed and power

• Accelerate hard when it is safe. The car should pull cleanly without hesitation.
• Try a dual carriageway or fast road. Vibration at 50–70 mph can mean unbalanced wheels or worn parts.
• Check that the engine does not overheat. The temperature gauge should settle in the middle and stay there.

Electrics and comfort

• Test the air conditioning, heater, windows, mirrors, wipers, indicators and parking sensors.
• Check the dashboard for warning lights during and after the drive. A light that never comes on at start-up may mean the bulb has been removed.
• On an electric or hybrid car, see our used electric car guide for battery checks.

What noises mean a used car has problems?

Turn the radio off and keep the windows up, then open them for part of the drive. Use this table as a guide. A noise does not always mean a big bill, but it is a reason to ask questions or get an inspection.

If you hear anything odd, repeat the same manoeuvre to confirm it. Ask the seller what they know about it.

How long should a test drive be?

Aim for 20–30 minutes at the very least. A short drive round the block will not show faults that appear once the engine is warm. A longer drive lets you test the car in town traffic, on faster roads and over rough surfaces.

Try to include:

• Slow-speed driving and tight turns
• A hill, if one is near
• A fast road or dual carriageway
• A few stops and starts
• Reversing and parking

If the seller limits you to a few minutes, ask why. A seller with nothing to hide should be happy for you to drive properly.

After the test drive

1. Park and leave the engine running. Look under the bonnet and under the car for new leaks or smoke.
2. Check the oil and coolant. Do this once the engine has cooled, following the handbook.
3. Take notes straight away. Write down every noise, smell and fault while it is fresh.
4. Do not rush. Walk away if you feel pressured. A good car will still be there tomorrow, or another will.
5. Run a full history check before you agree a price. See HPI check vs MOT history.

Use any faults you found to negotiate the price, or ask for them to be fixed in writing before you pay. If you are unsure about the car, pay for an independent inspection.

Frequently asked questions

What should I check on a test drive?

Check the cold start, warning lights, brakes, clutch bite, gear changes, steering pull, suspension noises and the electrics. Drive for at least 20 minutes and include faster roads. Listen with the radio off.

Am I insured to test drive a private seller's car?

Not necessarily. Your own policy may not cover test drives, so check with your insurer before you drive. If you cannot confirm cover, ask the seller to drive and sit in the passenger seat.

How long should a test drive be?

Aim for 20–30 minutes. You need enough time for the engine to warm up and for faults to appear. Include town driving, a faster road and some bumps.

What noises mean a used car has problems?

Humming that changes with speed, clunks over bumps, grinding brakes, gearbox whine and engine knocking are the main warning signs. A blowing exhaust or squealing belt also needs attention. Ask the seller about any noise and consider an independent inspection.

Should I test drive a car with no MOT?

Only if you are sure about the insurance and the legal position. A car without a valid MOT cannot be driven on the road except to a pre-booked test or to a repair place, so a test drive is not allowed. It is safer to wait until the car has a current MOT, or to view it without driving.

Can I test drive a car before I check its history?

You can, but it is better not to. Check the MOT history, tax status and a full vehicle history first. That way you do not waste time on a car with a clocked mileage, outstanding finance or a write-off record. Browse cars with this data on Motofly listings.