Used car buying checklist for the UK — 25 things to check before you pay

Most bad used car purchases go wrong before anyone looks at the car. The buyer skipped the paperwork, or trusted a photo, or did not ask one obvious question. This checklist puts the boring bits first because that is where the money is saved.

Before you travel

1. Get the registration number from the seller. If they refuse, walk away.
2. Read the MOT history on GOV.UK or on the Motofly listing. Check the mileage line by line. See our MOT history guide.
3. Check tax and MOT status are current, or that the car is declared SORN if it is off the road.
4. Run a vehicle history check for outstanding finance, insurance write-off category, theft markers and plate changes. It costs a few pounds and can save you the whole price of the car.
5. Compare the price against similar cars. Motofly shows a market price guide on every listing.
6. Check the seller. A private seller should be selling from the address on the V5C. A trader selling from a lay-by is a warning sign.

Paperwork to see in person

1. V5C logbook. Check the VIN on the V5C matches the plate on the car (usually at the base of the windscreen and under the bonnet). Check the seller's name and address match their ID.
2. Number of previous keepers. Many keepers in a short time can mean a problem car being passed on.
3. Service history. Stamps, invoices or a digital record from a main dealer. Note when the cambelt or chain, and the brake fluid, were last done.
4. MOT certificate if the car has one, and any recent repair invoices.
5. Spare key. A missing second key can cost £150–£400 to replace on a modern car.

The walk-round

1. Panel gaps and paint. Uneven gaps, mismatched paint or overspray on rubber trim suggest accident repair.
2. Tyres. All four should be a matching, reputable brand with even wear. Uneven wear can mean alignment or suspension problems. The legal minimum tread is 1.6 mm.
3. Under the bonnet. Oil should be clean, not milky. Coolant should be at the right level. Look for fresh leaks on the ground.
4. Underside. Bring a torch. Look at sills, subframes and suspension arms for heavy rust.
5. Lights, wipers, windows, air-con. Test everything. Small fixes add up.
6. Interior wear vs mileage. A shiny steering wheel and a sagging driver's seat on a "40,000-mile" car do not add up.
7. Warning lights. All should light up with the ignition on and go out after starting. A bulb that has been removed so a light never shows is a classic trick.

The test drive

1. Cold start. Ask the seller not to warm the car up before you arrive. Rattles, smoke and rough idling show up cold.
2. Drive at least 20 minutes, including a dual carriageway if possible.
3. Brakes. Should pull up straight without juddering.
4. Steering. No pulling, no knocks over bumps.
5. Gearbox. Smooth changes, no whine, clutch bites in the middle of its travel.
6. Listen with the radio off. Wheel bearing hum, exhaust blows and suspension knocks are all cheaper to find now than later.

Before you pay

1. Agree the price in writing, including anything the seller has promised to fix. Pay by bank transfer, get a receipt with both names, the registration, the mileage and the words "sold as seen" only if you accept that. Never hand over cash in a car park.

Your rights

Buying from a trader, the Consumer Rights Act 2015 says the car must be of satisfactory quality, as described and fit for purpose. You have a short-term right to reject a faulty car within 30 days.

Buying privately, the car only has to be as described and the seller must have the right to sell it. There is no right to reject for faults, which is why the checks above matter more in a private sale.

Once you are ready, browse used cars on Motofly. The MOT history, tax status and price guide are already on every listing.